Our last visit to Beirut, which was but a fleeting 48 hours, had left us wanting more. And so, with the city now calmed from its tumultuous past, we returned for a second chance to explore its streets and uncover its secrets.
We found lodgings at the Grand Meshmosh, a hostel nestled in the bustling Mar Nicolas neighborhood, where bars, restaurants, and cafes were but a stone's throw away, and the city's main sights were easily within reach. The atmosphere was electric, with travelers from all corners of the globe and staff that were more than willing to share their knowledge of the city. Our nightly ritual was sipping arak and playing backgammon and rummy before dinner. Arak, an Arabic anise-flavored spirit, is a popular drink in the Middle East and is often served with mezze, a selection of small dishes that accompany the drink.
On our first day, we visited Beit Beirut, delving into the city's troubled past, from the civil war of the 60s, 70s, and 80s to the ongoing financial crisis. The rest of the day we spent wandering the streets, taking in the unique architecture and vibrant energy of the city.
The next day, we set off for Byblos, a beautiful old port town, via bus. Bus travel in Eastern Europe and the Middle East can be chaotic, but once you learn the system, there is a certain method to the madness. In Beirut, buses congregate at "stations" that are really just spots along the highway. You simply listen for someone to yell the name of the place or direction you're looking for, and hop on a mini-van. Unfortunately, our stop came too quickly and we missed our drop off, but a couple of kind French Lebanese girls helped us communicate with the driver and we were dropped off in the next town. We quickly found a taxi that brought us back down to Byblos, which was clean, calm, and had several sites to see, including the old Souk and Roman ruins.
One of the main reasons for our return to Lebanon was to explore beyond Beirut and see sites such as Baalbek. So, we decided to take a tour, which, despite the high costs, was worth every penny. The excursion took us about 2 hours outside of Beirut, near the Syrian border, to see the ancient ruins of Baalbek.
Baalbek is an ancient Roman city located in the Beqaa Valley of Lebanon. It is widely known for its impressive ruins, including the Temple of Jupiter, the Temple of Bacchus, and the Temple of Venus. The ruins are some of the best preserved in the world and offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Visitors can explore the ruins, marvel at the intricate carvings, and learn about the history of this important archaeological site.
Baalbek is one of the more impressive historical sites we’ve seen. Far better than the Parthenon in Athens and in our opinion, on par with the major sights in Rome. On top of this, we had the place to ourselves, with no other tourists there and very little of it was sectioned off.
From Baalbek we made our way to Aanjar which is an ancient city located in the Bekaa Valley, one of the oldest inhabited cities in the Middle East. It was founded by the Umayyad Caliph Walid I in 714 AD and is considered to be one of the most important archaeological sites in Lebanon. Today it is home to the ruins of a large palace, several temples, and many other ancient ruins. The ruins are a testament to the city's long and rich history, and the city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We then ventured to the Bekaa Valley, a major wine-producing region of Lebanon. We visited the Kasara vineyards, where we explored the ancient Roman-era caves and sampled some of the local wine. On our last day in Beirut, we took a walking tour with the app "Audio Guides" to explore the city.
Reading:
- Kyle: Elephant Complex by John Gimlette
- Kelsey: Backgammon Rules